The Great Ocean Road is one of the world's most scenic drives. But if you want to experience the full drama of this route, do the trip by bike.

For the most part hugging the storm-jagged contours of Victoria's south-west coast, the Great Ocean Road is less romantically known as B100. It officially runs for 285km from the beachside community of Barwon Heads, some 20km south of the Phillip Bay port of Geelong, Victoria's second city, to Warrnambool, the state's premier whale-watching location. This was the route created as a memorial to those who had died fighting in World War I. It also happened to be a handy works project for over 3000 returning soldiers.

Construction began on September 19, 1919, and finished just over 13 years later. It wasn't until I was actually cycling along the most spectacular parts of the road that I realised what an amazing feat this had been, given that tracks had to be carved out with pick and shovel along plummeting cliffs. In places, workmen would dangle precariously by ropes from trees to hack the initial footholds in the rock. But then danger has never been a stranger to these shores, as the frequent memorials to shipwrecks testify. It's estimated that some 700 ships were dashed on the perilous rocks over two centuries.

These days the coast's fatal attraction is of different dimension. The Great Ocean Road snares thousands of visitors a day, most in cars and coaches, who breeze down the highway towards the star draw, the iconic limestone rock stacks of Port Campbell National Park. By far the more adventurous way, though, to experience the route's many charms is to cycle.

The prevailing winds are constantly changing, so the Great Ocean Road is just as easily cycled in either direction, although most people follow the route from east to west, starting in Geelong and ending in Warrnambool.

Driving along the Great Ocean Road between Geelong and Warrnambool takes around five and a half hours without stopping. To cycle the same route takes between three and six days, depending on how fit you are and how hard you want to push yourself. A suggested five-day itinerary is:

Day 1: Geelong to Queenscliffe (30km), then Queenscliffe to Torquay (45km)
Day 2: Toquay to Lorne (45km)
Day 3: Lorne to Apollo Bay (44km), then Cape Otway (32km) or Lavers Hill (47km)
Day 4: Cape Otway/Laver Hill to Port Campbell (87km/48km)
Day 5: Port Campbell to Warrnambool (66km)

Factor in bad weather and time spent relaxing on the beaches or exploring the national parks. Also don't underestimate the effort needed to tackle some of the hilly sections of the route, especially the push up Laver Hill.

If you're short on time, there are plenty of companies offering one-day bus day trips from Melbourne. You'll obviously see more if you can spend a few more days on the road. Among the better options are the backpacker bus trips run by Oz Experience (phone: 1300 300 028) and Wayward Bus (free call 1800 882 823) which stop at all the major sights and allow you to get off the bus and continue the trip a day or so later should you wish.

Officially the Great Ocean Road finishes at Warrnambool, where between June and October southern right whales and their calves can be spotted off Logans Beach. From here it's possible to catch a train back to Melbourne, but before leaving you could also pedal 17 kilometres more to architecturally appealing Port Fairy, where there are several National Trust-listed buildings and a bustling harbour of yachts and fishing boats.

Details:
Bicycle Victoria
19 O'Connell St, North Melbourne
Phone: (03) 9328 3000
Website: www.bv.com.au

Cycling tours are a great way to get active and see more of our beautiful country.