Okay, here's the thing — Brisbane used to have a bit of a chip on its shoulder about the whole "big country town" stereotype. While local denizens and civic boosters have been trying to pick the time at which it all changed and we finally grew up for ages (Expo '88 and the introduction of sidewalk dining in 1991 are two often cited events), the city's only really come into its own over the last decade.
Lots of folks are finally realising what some of us always knew — Brisbane's a unique place because it's such a neat place to live, and its hidden beauties are its strength. That can be anything from the tropical rainforest in the backyard to its music culture, but what doesn't work here is big ticket tourist attractions. That hasn't stopped politicians though — successive lord mayors and premiers have obsessed over creating a tourist "icon".
So while we humble citizens think the Story Bridge suffices quite nicely, pollies have given us "the greatest boulevard in the world" (Grey Street — don't ask — but it's actually quite a decent restaurant strip. Check out Obsession for excellent Chinese cuisine) and sundry other monumental or beaten up landmarks. Best advice is to give most of the "attractions" featured in travel guides the big flick.
Traipsing round the CBD looking at old buildings is a waste of shoe leather. Some are spiffy, to be sure, but the interesting ones were torn down during the '80s development mania. The Treasury Casino wins worst ever heritage makeover, and CBD night life is dire, unless you're into the close anthropological observation of binge drinking. Quaint old pubs, interesting clubs and band venues are long gone. Shopping's the thing in the CBD — visit QueensPlaza for class, and Rocking Horse Records for the original and best indie music haven. Avoid the Riverside markets, and head to the Valley (on a Saturday, not a Sunday) for genuine home-sewn fashion and all manner of interesting "alt.stuff".
If you're thirsty, try Rush on Anzac Square for tapas and a more relaxed vibe than many of the bars for suits. But you really should be in the Valley, the hub of bars, clubs, unique shops and subcultural goodness.
South Bank is worth a look, though. It's pleasantly morphed from a tourist trap into a genuinely popular pleasure space. The city beach is kitschy, but essential, and taking a stroll along the bottom of the Kangaroo Point Cliffs can't be beaten (and note the rather odd modernist statues — a legacy of Expo '88). Trundle over the footbridge to Gardens Point, and hop on the CityCat ferry — the ideal way to sense what's gorgeous about our town. Get off at New Farm Park though, and smell the roses as you repress the desire to see where Prime Minister Kevin Rudd used to go to church on Oxford Street, Bulimba — another cafe strip which is as overrated as its Sydney counterpart — slipping from "interesting and quirky" to "dully gentrified" in the flip of an eyelid.
Got any more places to avoid? Have your say using the comments form below.
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