Baan Khrua

Jim Thompson's House is on pretty much everyone's Bangkok itinerary, but few people bother to visit the village where Thompson had his silk woven. Which is surprising, since the former spy — who almost single-handedly brought Thai silk to the world before mysteriously disappearing in 1967 — built his house here because it was just a few metres across the khlong (canal) from Baan Khura.

So once you're done at still-lovely, but increasingly commercial, JT's place, walk out the gate, turn left and left again along the khlong. Cross the footbridge and you're in Baan Khrua, a place that is sometimes called a slum but is, in fact, one of the oldest communities in Bangkok. Baan Khrua literally means "Muslim family village" and it has been here since the land was granted to Chams arriving from Cambodia more than 200 years ago. It's a warren of narrow alleys and two-storey wooden homes that makes a stark contrast to the megamalls of nearby Siam. The best approach is to just wander, greeting the locals and listening for the clackety-clack of the few remaining silk looms. You'll probably come across the workshop of Niphon Manuthas, a member of the original silk-weaving families; he welcomes visitors to his workshop. If you can't find it, return to the khlong and head away from Jim Thompson's house 'til you see the sign.

Bangkok by bicycle

Bike tours? In Bangkok? Okay, so I accept that Bangkok's take-no-prisoners traffic and sweat-sapping humidity are not exactly ideal for cycling. But if you're up for something different...

The first option is a day tour that works its way through the back sois (streets) of Sukhumvit, through the poor market area of Khlong Toei, and across the Chao Phraya River into the "lungs" of Bangkok. These lungs are actually Phra Pradaeng, an expanse of mangrove, banana and coconut plantations that lies just a few kilometres from the frantic city centre. The shaded route follows elevated concrete paths that zigzag through the growth, where guides stop occasionally to explain the local use for some plant or another. At its best, the absence of horns, smog and traffic noise is truly serendipitous. The only downside is the concrete paths are a little on the narrow side, so the unsteady or unwary might wind up in the drink (not an appealing prospect). See Real Asia or Spice Roads for some options.

One night in Bangkok

I also recommend a night tour to Thonburi, the old, suburban part of Bangkok on the far side of the river. This area is crisscrossed by khlongs — Bangkok's original highways — and this trip follows these, steering clear of the traffic and getting into the simple, quiet neighbourhoods most tourists never see. And being dark, it's cooler. The exact route can vary, but it often includes stops at Wat Pho and Wat Arun, both of which are mercifully quiet by night. Velo Thailand comes recommended.

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