Starry, starry chefs

Europe's Michelin-starred chefs are lining up to open in Dubai. Gordon Ramsay has his long-standing Verre. English celebrity chef Gary Rhodes has Mezzanine at Grosvenor House. Philippe Gauvreau has the excellent Cafe Chic , while the new Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire is garnering rave reviews.

Fast food, Middle East style

The shwarma (a smaller doner kebab) is far tastier than a bland burger. Choose tangy lamb or garlicky chicken, order a fresh mango juice instead of fizzy sugar hit and you're good to go. Our fave after Gold Souk gawking is Ashwaq Cafeteria (corner of Al-Soor and Sikkat al-Khail streets, Deira)

What about Emirati cuisine?

Good question. There are a couple of restaurants around, but we love tucking into the traditional home-cooked food served up at the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) Cultural Breakfast. For a more formal setting, try Bastakiya Nights (9714 353 7772) in a restored courtyard house. No alcohol, though.

More Middle East feasts

Tagine at One&Only Royal Mirage offers a quick trip to Marrakech with traditional Moroccan classics served with equally authentic live Maghreb music. On a shopping spree, Almaz by Momo at Mall of the Emirates oozes modern Moroccan cool, with a sheesha cafe and brilliant non-alcoholic cocktails.

Let's meat

With a healthy steak-loving population of expats, Dubai delivers with some great meateries (sorry!). The Exchange Grill is a favourite in an elegant setting — think oysters and prime cuts — while Fire & Ice — Raffles Grill is the most innovative steak place in town, with excellent wines.

Currying flavours

Expats from the Indian subcontinent range from labourers to business tycoons, and the Indian and Pakistani food offerings reflect this. Everyone's favourite late-night cheapie, Ravi (Satwa Road, near Rydges Plaza), serves up honest Punjabi food, while at the other end of the scale Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia's Indego at Grosvenor House offers brilliant Indian fine dining.

Under a starry sky

If Dubai's sultry climate has you looking for a romantic al fresco dining experience, Dubai certainly delivers. Pierchic offers sublime vistas of Madinat Jumeirah and Burj Al Arab as well as succulent seafood, while Eauzone at One&Only Royal Mirage has tables set enchantingly on wooden boardwalks over watery ponds and offers creative fusion cuisine.

Sundowners

Our long-time favourite for savouring Dubai's spectacular sunsets is colonial style Bahri Bar . With the sun sinking on one side and the Burj Al Arab on the other, it's unbeatable, if a little too popular these days (get there by 5pm). More Arabian Nights in flavour is al fresco bar The Roof Top at One& Only Royal Mirage with cool tunes and killer cocktails.

Tasting menu

Drinks and finger food? Dubai has some excellent options. The Agency has a couple of branches (our favourite is at Madinat Jumeirah) where you can sample excellent wines by the glass or 'wine flights' (a themed selection of four) and tasty tapas, while French-style Vintage does similarly great wines, cheeses and fondue.

Middle East mezze

No trip to Dubai is complete without a 'big night out', which in Dubai means a long Lebanese feast. Sample endless mezze (dips and starters), meat grills, live music, and a belly dancer at Awtar — the Arab expats' favourite — and settle in for a long night.

Next: Luxuriate!

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