Rome is a feast of a city, and you can eat superbly here. Romans themselves love to eat out and do so regularly, noisily and discerningly. To do as the Romans do, try some of these splendid options.
Culinary thrills, no frills, low bills
Just off
Piazza Navona, fantastically good value and serving up Roman classics such as
pasta alla gricia (with pecorino, black pepper and pancetta),
Da Tonino (+39 06 687 7002) has no sign outside, opens lunch only, and will be full if you leave it too late.
A backstreet door in the Ghetto leads into rowdy, basic
Sora Margherita (+39 06 687 4216), a slice of pure Roma. Cheap, hearty and full of character, don't expect a menu or refined service. You'll need to book or queue.
A Roman snack attack
Lo Zozzone (+39 06 6880 8575) means "the dirty one". Don't be put off; it was affectionately called this and the name has stuck. Here you can get
pizza bianca (white pizza), filled with whatever you choose from the groaning counter of treats.
Forno di Campo de' Fiori is a favourite pitstop on the buzzing
Il Campo. Here you can buy delicious, piping hot, crispy
pizza bianca sprinkled with sea salt and rosemary, or
pizza rossa, covered in tangy fresh tomato. Eat it sitting on the ledge that runs along the base of Michelangelo's
Palazzo Farnese in the adjoining square.
The fifth quarter
If you want the real, old-school
cucina Romana deal, go to
Testaccio, the formerly rough-and-ready district clustered around Rome's slaughterhouse. Nowadays it's more chic, but restaurants here still specialise in dishes featuring the "fifth quarter" of the animal, or offal.
Agustarello (+39 06 574 6585) is plain, simple, and perennially packed with locals digging into dishes such as pasta with
pajata (veal calf entrails).
Local hero
It's worth making the journey out to out-on-a-limb
L'Apepiera (+39 06 789 060), on Via Latina (closest Metro stop Appio Latino), a restaurant that resembles dining in someone's living room. Hubby is on front of house, wife in the kitchen. But cuisine is not the traditional fare you might expect. There's a fascinating array of tastes, with southern
riso cozze e patata (baked dish of rice, mussels and potatoes) alongside adventurous surprises like cumin-scented couscous.
Hip hang outs
Locals are loving the boho district of
Pigneto, to the east of the city, which has a mix of traditional old-timer trattorie and new chic eateries: if you’re looking for adventurous twists on your plate, try
Primo (+39 06 701 3827). Another good place to head for interesting eateries is the student district of
San Lorenzo, where you can dine in former chocolate factory,
Said
(+39 06 446 9204) with chocolate-inspired dishes, or eat Rome’s best sushi at
Sushiko (+39 06 4434 0948).
Pizza perfection
For some of Rome's best pizza, served in traditional raucous fashion, try
Pizzeria Remo (+39 06 574 6886) in
Testaccio. Roman pizza has a paper-thin base, and is wood-fired, charred at the edges, and loaded with bubbling toppings. Expect ferociously fast waiters, paper tablecloths, queues outside, shared tables inside, and lots of noisy chatter. Other good places to try are
Da Baffetto (+39 06 686 1617), and
Formula Uno (+39 06 445 3866). Pizzerias are usually only open evenings, though also-recommended
La Montecarlo (+39 06 686 1877) bucks this trend.
Bir & Fud (+39 06 589 4016) is a new Trastevere pizzeria, with spectacular organic pizzas and a microbrewery on site.
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